Sunday 17 September 2017

Hair School 7: Ayurveda



Ayurveda for hair is something I haven’t tried for myself yet, but I’ve been reading some and figured I’d compile the information I have so far.

Basically, Ayurveda is not just for hair – it means “the way of life” and is a type of all-encompassing Indian medicinal science. But, some of it can be used for your hair. For example, in the case of hair loss, Ayurvedic practices can be used to diagnose the cause, and then recommend a treatment. This will probably include changing a poor diet or cutting down on stress. But there are some Ayurvedic herbs out there that can help as well. And it’s not just for hair loss, but also for cleansing hair gently, and encouraging curl patterns, among other things. Below I’ll outline a few common ones!

This post is humongous so the herbs and plants are organised alphabetically, followed by a few suggestions for methods of how to mix several of the plants together and use them. Below is an index of their order. Under the index I have also grouped the plants in accordance to their properties, such as “cleansing”, “hair growth/hair fall remedy”, “oily scalp” etc., so you can check out which property you’re most interested in, and then refer to the index to find the specific plants.

Herbs/plants

1. Aloe Vera
2. Amla (Amalaki/Indian Gooseberry)
3. Aromatic Jatamansi (Muskroot/Indian Spikenard)
4. Ashwagandha (Indian Winter Cherry)
5. Baheda/Bahera
6. Bhringraj (The King Of Herbs/Bringraj/Bringaraj/False Daisy)
7. Brahmi (Bacopa monnieri)
8. Cassia Obovata (”Neutral Henna”)
9. Methi (Fenugreek)
10. Neem
11. Ritha (Reetha/Soap Nuts)
12. Shikakai (Fruit for Hair)

Methods

1. Hot Oil Massage
2. Shampoo/Conditioner Paste

0. Sources

Properties:

Cleansing: (1.) Aloe Vera; (2.) Amla; (5.) Baheda; (11.) Ritha; (12.) Shikakai
Conditioner: (1.) Aloe Vera; (2.) Amla; (5.) Baheda; (6.) Bhringraj; (7.) Brahmi; (8.) Cassia Obovata; (11.) Ritha; (12.) Shikakai
Scalp problem relievers: (1.) Aloe Vera; (2.) Amla; (4.) Ashwagandha; (7.) Brahmi; (9.) Methi; (10.) Neem; (11.) Ritha; (12.) Shikakai
Lice: (10.) Neem; (12.) Shikakai
Oily scalp: (2.) Amla; (10.) Neem
Hair growth/hair fall remedy: (1.) Aloe Vera; (2.) Amla; (3.) Aromatic Jatamansi; (4.) Ashwagandha; (5.) Baheda; (6.) Bhringraj; (7.) Brahmi; (9.) Methi; (10.) Neem; (11.) Ritha; (12.) Shikakai
Greying remedy: (1.) Aloe Vera; (2.) Amla; (4.) Ashwagandha; (5.) Baheda; (6.) Bhringraj; (10.) Neem; (12.) Shikakai
Curl enhancer: (2.) Amla
Hair strengthener: (5.) Baheda; (7.) Brahmi; (8.) Cassia Obovata; (Henna – see Lesson 5)
Hair dye: (2.) Amla; (6.) Bhringraj; (8.) Cassia Obovata; (Henna, indigo, and katam - see Lesson 5)


1. Aloe Vera

The gel of the Aloe Vera plant is a humectant nourishes and moisturises your scalp and hair. It helps prevent/remedy hair fall and stimulates hair growth. It contains vitamins A, C, and E, and some minerals, which are antioxidants that combat free radicals. Free radicals are agents that cause aging of hair, such as loss of colour and thinning.

Aloe Vera gel also has enzymes, fatty acids, hormones, and sugars that reduce inflammation in skin and help wound healing. A few anthraquinines (say that fast three times!) have both pain killing (analgesic), antibacterial, and antiviral properties, while a couple of fatty acids are antiseptic and analgesic. One type of sugar has antiallergic properties, and aloe vera also contains salicylic acid, which is a well known anti-inflammatory and antibacterial, often used in treatment of acne.

Lignin facilitates penetration of other substances, much like alcohol, but is a good non-drying alternative. Finally, aloe vera contains saponins (“soaps”) at about 3%, which are cleansing and antiseptic.

All in all, applied topically it is cleansing, antibacterial and antiviral, nourishing, protective, pain killing, antiallergic, and increases the benefit of other products/ingredients used at the same time. It’s good for people with various scalp problems – from itchiness and dandruff, to hair fall and greying hair. (Source 1, Aloe Vera Article 1, Aloe Vera Article 2)


Recipes containing aloe vera

Scalp paste:

½ cup Aloe Vera gel (120 ml or 1 dl, 1 tbsp, and 1 tsp)
3 tbsp Coconut Oil
2 tbsp Honey

Whisk the ingredients together until the mixture is.
Stroke it onto your scalp and hair, and let it sit for half an hour. This is good for both the skin of your scalp and your hair strands. (Source 1)

Scalp and hair deep treatment:

Add pure aloe vera gel to your scalp, hair, or both, and let sit for 15 minutes or more (even overnight!). You can also mix with castor oil, which has similar properties for hair fall. (Source 3)


2. Amla/Amalaki/Indian Gooseberry

Amla is good to prevent/remedy hair fall, as well as irritated scalps and dandruff. It fights bacteria, inflammations, and microbes, and tighten up pores so that new bacteria and dirt have a harder time getting lodged there and causing new problems. It increases blood flow to the scalp, which stimulates hair growth. It conditions hair, is rich in antioixants that prevent hair fall and greying, and is cleansing and balances oily scalps. It sometimes can have curl enhancing properties, and can also be used to in conjunction with shikakai (no. 12) to dye a light brown colour. However, since there are no bleaching properties in amla, this colour will only show on light hair. (Source 1)

Recipes containing amla

Conditioner and scalp treatment:

5-6 tbsp Amla powder
5-6 tbsp water

Amounts depend on the amount of hair. Mix 50% water and 50% amla together into a smooth mixture. Apply this to both scalp and hair. Let sit for 30 minutes. (Source 1)

Hair dye:

Mix shikakai and amla with water and apply to hair (Source 2)

Hair oil:

There are several ready made amla hair oils sold out there, but you can also make your own by infusing amla powder into your oil of choice. Leave for a week/few weeks, and then strain the mixture to get rid of the powder. (Source 3)

Anti-dandruff:

Combine amla with coconut oil to combat dandruff (Source 3)


Hair rinse:

Add 1 tbsp amla to 1 cup (230 ml: 2dl + 2 tbsp) water. Let it sit overnight, then boil it in the morning. Let is cool, strain, and use it as a hair rinse. (Source 3)


3. Aromatic Jatamansi/Muskroot/Indian Spikenard

Jatamansi boosts hair growth. It can be both applied topically, or taken orally in a capsule.

Recipes containing jatamansi

Hair oil:

5-6 drops Jatamansi essential oil
2-3 tbsp carrier oil of your choice – I would suggest coconut or a light vegetable oil

Mix the oils and massage your scalp with the mixture for 15 minutes. Then apply tp the lengths of your hair as well and let sit for 30 minutes. (Source 1)


4. Ashwagandha/Indian Winter Cherry

Ashwagandha is the top remedy for hair fall in Aryurveda.  It controls the cortisol levels in the scalp, a stress hormone that can be the cause of hair loss. It also has antioxidants and stimulates melanin production, which helps hair growth and prevents greying. Aschwgandha is helpful against dandruff and psoriasis. It can be applied topically or taken orally in 6mg capsules daily. (Source 1Source 2Source 3)

Recipes containing ashwagandha

Hair paste:

3 tbsp ashwagandha powder
3 tbsp amla powder
6 tbsp water

Mix ingredients into a smooth mixture. More water can be added to make it less thick. Apply to scalp and hair and let sit for 30 min. (Source 1)


5. Baheda/bahera

Baheda is foremost a hair strengthener, but it also boosts hair growth, prevents greying through antioxidant properties, and cleanses and conditions. (Source 2)

Recipes containing Baheda

Scalp oil:

Massage your scalp with baheda oil (Baheda Article 1)

Scalp curd:

3 tsp baheda powder
1/2 cup curd

Massage into your scalp and let sit for 30 min (Baheda Article 2)


6. Bhringraj/The King Of Herbs/Bringraj/Bringaraj/False Daisy

Bhringraj boosts hair growth by increasing blood circulation in the scalp and remedies hair fall and greying. It is conditioning and may darken light hair. (Source 2)


Recipes containing bhringraj

Hair paste:

A handful bhringraj leaves or 5-6 tbsp bhringraj powder
Water
Optional: amla

Add water to the bhringraj little by little while mixing, until you have a smooth mixture. Apply to scalp and hair and let sit for 20 min. (Source 1)


Hair oil for scalp:

Ready made bhringraj oil is also sold here and there, or you canmake it by adding powdered leaves to an oil and let soak for a few days until the colour changes. (Source 1Source 3)

Hair yoghurt:

Mix yoghurt and bhringraj leaves and apply to scalp. (Source 3)


7. Brahmi/Bacopa monnieri

Brahmi is a hair strengthener and boosts hair growth by stimulating the follicles. It reduces dandruff and scalp itchiness. It conditions the hair, makes it thicker, and prevents split ends. (Source 1, Source 2)


Recipes containing brahmi

Hair yoghurt:

2 tbsp brahmi powder
2 tbsp amla powder
2 tbsp ashwagandha powder
½ cup yogurt

Mix ingredients into a smooth paste. Apply to scalp and hair, and let sit for an hour. (Source 1)

Hair rinse:

Boil brahmi and neem leaves for 10 minutes. Let it sit overnight, strain and use as a rinse the next morning. (Source 1

Hair rinse 2:

Boil water. Mix brahmi, neem, ashwagandha and bhringraj powder into the water and leave overnight with a lid on. Strain and use as a hair rinse. (Source 3)

Hair paste:

Mix brahmi, amla, and bhringraj with warm water, into a smooth paste. Let sit for an hour before applying to hair. Wait until it dries, then wash. (Source 3)


8. Cassia Obovata/”Neutral henna”

This one got a little action before in Lesson 5. Unlike henna, which is pimarily a colourant and secondly a conditioner, Cassia's colour doesn't last long and can be used multiple times for conditioning. So, here Cassia is again. Cassia is most often used mixed with henna, indigo, and katam (see Lesson 5) to dilute the hair dye. It has a bright yellow colour and can leave light hair with a yellow tinge. This washes out in a month or so. It conditions hair, makes it stronger, thicker, and shinier. (Source 2)

Recipes containing cassia

Hair dye:

Cassia with henna – see Lesson 5

Deep conditioner:

Mix with amla, and chamomile tea into a smooth paste to add a warm tinge to light hair (Source 2)


9. Methi/Fenugreek

Methi can be used to boost hair growth, remedy hair fall, dandruff, and itchiness. (Source 1, Source 2)

Recipes containing methi

Scalp paste

2 tbsp methi
3 tbsp water

Fry the methi in a pan and grind into a powder.
Mix the powder and water into a smooth paste and apply to your scalp. Let sit for 20 minutes.  (Source 1)


10. Neem

Neem improved blood circulation in the scalp and boosts hair growth. It is helpful against greying, and is also a good remedy for dandruff, lice (!), eczema, psosiasis, and an oily scalp. (Source 1Source 2Source 3)

Recipes containing neem

Hair rinse:

A handful of neem leaves
2 cups water

Boil the leaves in the water for 15 minutes, let is cool, then strain the mixture.Boil the neem leaves in water for 15 minutes and then set it aside to cool, then rinse your hair in it. (Source 1Source 3)
  
Hair paste:

Mix neem powder with enough water to make a smooth paste. Apply to scalp and hair and let sit for 30 min. (Source 1Source 3)

Hair oil:

Mix neem oil with a carrier oil and massage onto scalp (Source 3)


11. Ritha/Reetha/Soap Nuts

Ritha has historically been used as a type of shampoo and conditioner. It is antibacterial and regular use boosts hair growth, texture, and volume. It’s very mild and won’t strip the natural oils from your hair, which may or may not be the look you’re going for. (Source 1Source 2, Source 3)


Recipes containing ritha

Cleanser:

A handful of soap nuts
water

Soak the soap nuts overnight in warm water. Boil the soap nuts and water for 15 minutes, let it cool, and strain the mixture. Wet your hair and pour half of the liquid over your hair. Massage thoroughly and rinse. Pour the other half of the liquid, massage, and rinse. The second time, the liquid will lather slightly. (Source 1Source 3)

Moisturising cleanser:
Soak nuts, amla, and shikakai overnight, boil, and strain. Pour over your head and massage twice. (Source 3)
Hair mask:
3 tsp ritha powder
water
2 tsp yoghurt

Mix, and apply to hair 
(Source 3)

12. Shikakai/Fruit for Hair

Shikakai lathers with water and can be used as a shampoo. It has antioxidants and is antibacterial, so it prevents greying, hair fall, and scalp problems such as dandruff and itchiness, and even lice. It’s doesn’t clear all natural oils from the hair so it also acts as a conditioner and gives volume. It may darken light hair. (Source 1Source 2, Source 3)

Recipes with shikakai

Cleanser:

6 tbsp shikakai powder
2 cups water.

Mix the ingredients and pour half over your head. Massage thoroughly. Repeat with the second half. (Source 1)

Hair pack:
Shikakai and yoghurt (Source 3)
Lice remedy:
Shikakai and olive oil (Source 3)

Method 1. Hot Oil Massage

A great way to treat your hair is a hot oil massage. Choose your ingredients of choice, either from the ones mentioned here or other herbs you take an interest in. Under a few sections here are recipes for how to make an oil by infusing a herb – check the section for neem, for example (number 10). You don’t have to choose just one herb, you can infuse as many as you want in your carrier oil.

A hot oil massage using either coconut, maha bhringraj, amla, arnica, sesame seed, almond or Brahmi oil helps improve circulation, rejuvenates your hair follicles, which leads to better blood circulation to the roots. You can expect increased volume and length within a span of 6 months.

When your herbal oil is all infused, strained, and ready for use, to do a hot oil massage you heat your herbal oil until it is slightly warm. No more than a few seconds in the microwave, or give the container a hot water bath. Then you massage your scalp with your oil thoroughly – 15 minutes or so. Then you apply the oil to your entire hair and tuck it into a shower cap. The heat from your body will be contained in the shower cap, and will help the oil to penetrate the hair shaft. Leave it as long as you like, but 30 minutes is a good tip. (Source 1)





Method 2. Mixing your herbal powders with floral waters to make shampoo paste

Generally, the cleansing powders are either boiled and strained, and then poured over the head, or mixed into a paste-consistency and applied to the scalp. Either way requires water. A fun tip I picked up online was to mix your cleansing powders with floral water for added fragrance and benefit from the essential oils. I’ve written a little bit about rose water and orange blossom water already, so check that post out if you’re interested.

You can also mix with various teas, such as chamomile tea for blondes, or perhaps peppermint tea for people with scalp problems. (Source 2)



Sources:

Source 1: 
Source 2: 
Source 3:

Additional sources:

- Aloe Vera:
Article 1: 
Article 2: 

- Baheda:
Article 1: 
Article 2: 

Sunday 10 September 2017

Historical Haircare Part 3: Viking Hairstyles


Hair knot with a tail


Originally I started up this Historical Haircare series because I have an interest in the Viking Age - ever since my childhood, really. I grew up learning about the history, legends, and mythology in school. My parents would read the legends and mythology as bedtime stories. As I grew up, I developed an interest in how different people see the world differently - both in other cultures and other historical ages. As I forayed into haircare, and found lots of interesting things about contemporary haircare in different culture (e.g. Afro haircare, Ayurveda, etc.), I started wondering about those Vikings. What did they do? I googled around and found this excellent page, the Viking Answer Lady Webpage, and she has a whole article on haircare! The article goes over both male and female hairstyles, and washing. I'm going to outline particularly female hairstyles, such as the one above, but as an aside-note - it seems Vikings were pretty clean, compared to most other people around that Age!

Onto hairstyling! Coronet type head bands called "fillets"" were not uncommon all over Europe. Head dressings, and hoods, with the hair knotted at the neck seem to have been more common in the Christianised areas. But above all, the knotted hairstyle above seems to be the most prevalent hairstyle depicted for Viking Age women where it's not immediately obvious if they wore a head cover or not. It shows up in many figurines and the like. It's not clear if it's just long hair twisted into a knot with a ponytail, a similarly knotted braid, or perhaps a scarf around the head that is knotted at the nape of the neck and the tail left hanging loose.



Hair knot without a tail

 
Historiska

There are a few variations of the hair knot around, such as this one. It could be interpreted as a knotted head cover, or maybe a coronet, braids across the scalp, and a knot at the neck. It's difficult to know for sure.


Double hair knot

https://www.flickr.com/photos/28772513@N07/4560502772/

This lady could be wearing her hair in double "sailor moon"-type knotted buns, or as mentioned frequently, a double knotted head covering. Personally, I'm wondering if the stripes could represent hair, or perhaps several braids.


Very detailed hair knot with a tail

Photo: Jan Hein

This little figurine is the reason I'm convinced at least some wore their hair knotted, not just a head covering. If you look at the first and middle pictures, you can see that she has a middle part! Now, if the striped look of the hair is representative of hair strands or small braids is another issue, but according to the Viking Lady Answer Webpage article linked before, women seemed to wear their hair both loose and in braids sometimes, so either is possible I suppose.

Modern adaptations

Despite not having clear cut answers to just how Viking women wore their hair, this only peaks my interest and creativity. Sure, it would be cool to know just exactly what they looked like - but we don't. I find myself enjoying creating various hairstyles inspired by these depictions instead! Now, I'm most certainly not the first one to do that, but I still want to document my process.

Comet bun

After having a looksie around LHC and not finding what I was looking for, I posted a newbie question and got a great response from user enting that set me on the right track. A knotted bun with a tail is called a "comet bun"! I'd never heard of that before, but it was just what I was looking for. I googled around a bit and found a few tutorials. My favourite is probably the one by happy hair days. She, in turn, referenced Torrinpaige's video on YouTube "Knot Bun", which I also found helpful. Basically, you just take all your hair and do a single knot. You can either leave the tail hanging, or wrap it around the bun similarly to how you wrap your ends around a cinnabun. My hair is über-slippy so I would secure the bun with mini-hairclaws around the perimeter. I suppose your could use hair pins, spin pins, or whatever you prefer as well. I don't know what ladies used in the "Days of Yore" but I'm not too fussed either way. This method would give you the look of how I imagine the first two pictures, and the last, would have look liked in real life. You could also use this method to create the "Viking sailor moon"-look in the third picture, but with smaller buns high on your head.

Comet cinnabun

Unfortunately, my hair is too short still to do a proper knot bun at all - with or without a tail. So, until my hair grows, I'll just have to make do with a cinnabun. Here, I take the majority of my hair and clip it forward out of the way. I leave a little bit at the center of my neck hanging, enough to french braid it two or three turns before braiding it to the ends. I then take the rest of my hair and cinnabun it on top of the beginning of the little french braid. This way, it looks like the braid starts in the bun.

Protective scarf

Personally, I'm not one for head coverings. It's not part of my religion or culture, and sometimes I just find it difficult to incorporate methods from different cultures without being appropriative. What is and isn't appropriative is often unclear to me, so I tend to stay away until I know more. That's my personal choice, and I don't expect the same from anyone else.

Still, I do sort of wear head coverings at home, sometimes. When I deep condition, I slather my hair with oil, deep conditioner, mayo, whathaveyou, put a shower cap on, and in the summer I tie a scarf around it. This makes it look nicer, and helps the body head to stay trapped in the hair. Of course, the shower cap does that quite well on it's own, I just like having a scarf over it anyway. (During winter I may put a wool cap over the shower cap instead, but that's a bit too warm during the summer months.) Often I tie the scarf in a knot at the nape of my neck simply because that's the easiest way of securing it. I tie it off first with an elastic, and then I knot the scarf around the elastic for aesthetic reasons. Coincidentally, it looks just like the Viking figurines above...



I hope this was interesting! I just focused on the parts that I personally find the most interesting and worth my while, but I've mentioned the other topics and linked all sources so I can return to them in case I want to read up more.

~ Siv