MASSIVE post oncoming! Check out the headlines and summary paragraphs at the end of each section if you want to skim it.
Here’s a table of contents, so that you can navigate through scrolling easier.
1. Introduction
1.1 Introduction: Summary
2. Characteristics of salon brands
2.1 Characteristics of salon brands: Summary
3. Investigation of salon brand conditioners
3.1 Sachajuan Moisturising Conditioner
3.2 Joico K-PAK Conditioner
3.3 Redken All Soft Conditioner
3.4 Sachajuan Shampoo for Normal Hair
3.5 Summary: Investigation of salon brand products
4. Salon quality hair care with drugstore priced products
4.1 Summary: Salon quality hair care with drugstore priced products
1. Introduction
I’ve been on a quest for quite some years to find a cheap, easy, hair care routine that gives me the best hair I’ve ever had. It hasn’t been easy, especially since I’m on a budget! I think I’ve figured a thing or two out so far, and I’m on the right track, but I haven’t really been able to explore expensive brands.
Then, I recently came across what is promoted as “Sweden’s biggest hair blog”. Hairdresser Elin Johansson runs it. And, unsurprisingly, she and I have different views on hair care, but that doesn’t mean I don’t like her blog! She has some rather insightful, easy-to-understand, blog posts on hair care from a hairdresser’s point of view. A couple of them that I read just today were on the topic of salon brands vs. drug store brands. You can find part 1 here, and part 2 here, though they are in Swedish so I thought I’d quickly summarise them.
Basically, a lot of big brands like L’Oréal and Schwarzkopf for example have a lot of different priced ranges of products, some expensive sold in salons and some cheaper sold in drugstores and grocery stores. The cheaper products are made with cheaper and lower quality ingredients, while the more expensive products get the more expensive and higher quality ingredients. Both a drug store product and salon product can have coconut oil, for example, but the salon product may in that case e.g. get the “fresher” coconut oil and have more of it than the drug store product. Drug store product can also have a higher amount of cheap purely cosmetic ingredients (e.g. silicones) and less of the expensive truly care giving ingredients, while the salon products have more care giving ingredients and less cosmetic ingredients.
1.1 Introduction: Summary
Salon brands have higher quality ingredients, and also more of the beneficial ingredients as opposed to the only cosmetic ingredients.
2. Characteristics of salon brands
I don’t have the budget to buy expensive brands, and even if I did I probably wouldn’t unless I knew in detail why that brand is better than cheaper brands. I still wanted to figure out why these products are supposedly so good, and what I can do to replicate it. What I’ve found, through some rigorous googling, is that a conditioner often has a few characteristics.
Moisturising: ingredients that soak into the hair, improving elasticity
Protective: ingredients that coat the hair, improving detangling and shine and locks in moisture
Protein: ingredients that fill in the cracks in the hair, improving strength
Humectants: ingredients that bind water to the hair, improving water moisture
There are also a bunch of anti-frizz and other characteristics that I’m not too interested in. For example, I notice a difference in frizz when I use protective ingredients, and a difference in static when I use moisturising ingredients. So splurging on extra ingredients for that seems unnecessary for my hair.
Shampoos, on the other hand, often have some of these characteristics. A good shampoo will have a little bit of all four categories in moderate amounts since the primary function of the shampoo is to clean. Often even “gentle” shampoos will have harshsurfactants such as SLS combined with these four “conditioner characteristics” to balance the damaging effect of the surfactants. But, having loads of surfactants and loads of conditioning ingredients doesn’t make the surfactants less harsh, or “mend” the damage they do – it is just masked. I’ve tried some salon brand shampoos. An example is Sachajuan Shampoo for Normal Hair. It has SLS and conditioning ingredients, and because I pre-oil I noticed that the SLS was actually in lower amounts than drug store brands (I had to shampoo three times to get the oil out) – so it was truly less damaging.
2.2 Characteristics of salon brands: Summary
A good conditioner has moisturising ingredients that improve elasticity, protectiveingredients that improve detangling and shine and locks in moisture, proteinthat improves strength, and humectants that improve water moisture. A good shampoo has conditioning ingredients as well as a level amount of surfactants.
3. Investigation of salon brand products
Here are the ingredient lists of three expensive salon conditioners that I’ve tried, and have worked really well for my hair. I’m only going to do one shampoo, since I’m personally more interested in conditioners, but still wanted the post to be “well-rounded”. I’ve written what I could find about each ingredient. This section is going to be long, but it’s just a bunch of lists, so bear with me please! The ingredient names are underlined and italicised and the properties they have for hair (rather than the chemical composition of the product) are underlined. Remember, the higher up in the ingredient list the more of it is in the product, and vice versa.
3.1 Sachajuan Moisturising Conditioner
Aqua (water) – for consistency
Cetyl alcohol – also hexadecan-1-ol and palmityl alcohol. A fatty alcohol that is protective (emollient) and isn’t drying like denatured alcohol or ethanol. Makes formulas more opaque, thick, and stabilises the chemical reaction as well as is a mild surfactant(emulsifier)
Behentrimonium chloride – antistatic, moisturising, and disinfecting.
Glycerin – also glycerol and 1, 2, 3 propane triol. A fatty alcohol that is protective (emollient) and isn’t drying like denatured alcohol or ethanol. Humectant.
Stearyl alcohol – also octadecyl alcohol or 1-octadecanol. Thickens the formula, a mild surfactant and stabilises the chemical reaction (emulsifier), protective.
Propylene glycol – also propane-1,2-diol and E1520. Humectant.
Chondrus crispus extract – also carrageen moss or Irish moss extract. Thickening, protective against UV-rays, protective.
Argania spinosa kernel oil – also argan oil. Moisturising, protective, and thickening.
Dimethicone – protective.
Dioleoylethyl hydoxyethylmonium methosulfate– antistatic, protective.
Cetearyl ethylhexanoate – formerly Cetearyl Octanoate. Protective.
Parfum – can be based on essential oils, but can also be based on denatured alcohol or ethanol, which are drying. Potentially drying.
Glycereth-2 cocoate – mild surfactant and emulsifier: protective, thickening and stabilises the formula.
Persea gratissima oil – also avocado oil. Moisturising, protective.
Isopropyl alcohol – also propan-2-ol, dimethyl carbinol or, incorrectly, isopropanol. Disinfectant, drying, increases absorption of other ingredients, emulsifier.
Sodium benzoate – also E211. Preservative.
PEG-40 Hydrogenated castor oil – a water soluble version of castor oil. Emulsifier, mild surfactant, fragrance. Like castor oil, it can be used for dandruff, dry scalp, hair growth. Disinfectant, protective.
Sodium chloride – also salt or hailite. Regular table salt and sea salt. Preservative, drying, texturizing.
Isopropyl mysistrate – emulsifier, kills lice, enhances absorption of other ingredients, drying.
C12-13 Pareth-3 – mild surfactant, emulsifier, protective.
C12-13 Pareth-23 – mild surfactant, emulsifier.
Citric acid – preservative, drying, chelating, disinfecting, gets rid of dandruff, and stimulates hair growth.
Linalool – fragrance, kills fleas.
Limonene – also dipentene. Fragrance, stimulates hair growth, fights dandruff.
Benzyl salicylate – fragrance, reflects UV-light.
Hexyl cinnamal – also hexyl cinnamaldehyde. Fragrance.
Salicylic acid – anti-dandruff, drying, preservative.
3.2 Joico K-PAK Conditioner
Water/Aqua/Eau – for consistency
Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine – mild surfactant, protective.
Cetyl Alcohol – also hexadecan-1-ol and palmityl alcohol. A fatty alcohol that is protective (emollient) and isn’t drying like denatured alcohol or ethanol. Makes formulas more opaque, thick, and stabilises the chemical reaction as well as is a mild surfactant(emulsifier)
PEG/PPG-20/23 Dimethicone – a water soluble version of dimethicone. Protective.
Glycol Stearate – emulsifying, mild surfactant, thickener, protective.
Pentapeptide-29 Cysteinamide – protein (strengthens hair).
Pentapeptide-30 Cysteinamide – protein (strengthens hair).
Tetrapeptide-28 Argininamide – protein (strengthens hair).
Tetrapeptide-29 Argininamide – protein (strengthens hair).
Hydrolyzed Keratin – protein (strengthens hair).
Hydrolyzed Keratin PG-Propyl Methylsilanediol – protein (strengthens hair).
Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin – protein (strengthens hair).
Keratin Amino Acids – protein (strengthens hair).
Aleurites Moluccana Seed Oil – also candlenut or kuikui oil. Protective.
Psidium Guajava Fruit Extract – also guava fruit extract. Astringent, protective, fragrance, increases hair growth.
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice – humectant, disinfecting, fights dandruffand increases hair growth, increases absorption of moisturising ingredients.
Oenothera Biennis Oil – also evening primrose oil. Good for hair growth, dandruff, eczema.
Tocopheryl Acetate – also vitamin E acetate. Antioxidant (good for hair growth and general hair health).
Hyaluronic Acid – humectant.
Glycolipids – moisturising and protective
Cetearyl Alcohol – a mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohol. Emulsifier, thickener, mild surfactant, protective.
Ceteth-2 – emulsifier, mild surfactant.
Cetrimonium Bromide – also cetyltrimethylammonium bromide or hexadecyltrimethylammonium bromide. Mild surfactant, preservative, antistatic, disinfecting.
Myristyl Myristate – emulsifier: thickening and stablilising. Protective.
Glyceryl Stearate – emulsifier: mild surfactant and stabilising. Protective.
Sodium Chloride – also salt or hailite. Regular table salt and sea salt. Preservative, drying, texturizing.
Citric Acid – preservative, drying, chelating, disinfecting, gets rid of dandruff, and stimulates hair growth.
Ceteareth-20 – emulsifier, mild surfactant.
Sorbic Acid – also 2,4-hexadienoic acid and E200. Preservative, disinfectant, humectant.
Disodium EDTA – enhances absorption of moisturising ingredients, chelator, preservative.
PEG-20 Almond Glycerides – emulsifier, mild surfactant, protective.
Glycerin – also glycerol and 1, 2, 3 propane triol. A fatty alcohol that is protective (emollient) and isn’t drying like denatured alcohol or ethanol. Humectant.
Benzophenone-4 – UV-protector/preservative, emulsifier: stabiliser, fragrance.
Thioctic Acid – antioxidant: good for hair growth and general hair health
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane – UV-protector/preservative
Methylchloroisothiazolinone – disinfectant/preservative
Methylisothiazolinone – disinfectant/preservative
Allantoin – protective, good for wound healing
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate – antioxidant: good for hair growth and general hair health
Triethanolamine – balances pH
Methylparaben – disinfectant/preservative
Propylparaben – disinfectant/preservative
Limonene – also dipentene. Fragrance, stimulates hair growth, fights dandruff.
Butylphenyl Methylpropional
Benzyl salicylate – fragrance, reflects UV-light.
Citronellol – fragrance
Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde – fragrance
Hydroxycitronellal – fragrance
Fragrance/Parfum – can be based on essential oils, but can also be based on denatured alcohol or ethanol, which are drying. Potentially drying.
3.3 Redken All Soft Conditioner
Aqua/Water – for consistency
Cetearyl Alcohol – a mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohol. Emulsifier, thickener, mild surfactant, protective.
Behentrimonium Chloride – antistatic, moisturising, and disinfecting.
Elaeis Guineensis Oil – also palm oil. Like coconut oil, it is high in lauric acid which bonds with keratin protects hair from breakage. Protective, moisturising.
Cetyl Alcohol alcohol – also hexadecan-1-ol and palmityl alcohol. A fatty alcohol that is protective (emollient) and isn’t drying like denatured alcohol or ethanol. Makes formulas more opaque, thick, and stabilises the chemical reaction as well as is a mild surfactant(emulsifier)
Isopropyl Alcohol – also propan-2-ol, dimethyl carbinol or, incorrectly, isopropanol. Disinfectant, drying, increases absorption of other ingredients, emulsifier.
Phenoxyethanol – disinfectant/preservative
Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine – mild surfactant, protective.
Octyldodecanol – fragrance, emulsifying, protective.
Sodium PCA – humectant, antistatic, emulsifier.
Parfum/Fragrance – can be based on essential oils, but can also be based on denatured alcohol or ethanol, which are drying. Potentially drying.
Citric Acid – preservative, drying, chelating, disinfecting, gets rid of dandruff, and stimulates hair growth.
Sodium Cocoyl Amino Acids – protein (strengthens hair).
Chlorhexidine Dihydrochloride – disinfectant/preservative
Stearyl Alcohol – also octadecyl alcohol or 1-octadecanol. Thickens the formula, a mild surfactant and stabilises the chemical reaction (emulsifier), protective.
Myristyl Alcohol – fragrance, emulsifier: thickening, stabilising, protective.
Potassium Dimethicone Peg-7 Panthenyl Phosphate– protective.
Sodium Sarcosinate – surfactant, preservative.
Propylene Glycol – also propane-1,2-diol and E1520. Humectant.
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oi l– also argan oil. Moisturising, protective, and thickening.
Arginine – antioxidant: good for hair growth and general hair health
Hydrolyzed Soy Protein – protein (strengthens hair).
Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein Pg-Propyl Silanetriol – protein(strengthens hair).
Sodium Chloride – also salt or hailite. Regular table salt and sea salt. Preservative, drying, texturizing.
Tetrasodium EDTA – chelator/preservative.
Potassium Sorbate – also E202. Preservative, disinfectant, humectant.
3.4 Sachajuan Shampoo for Normal Hair
Aqua Purificata – for consistency
Sodium Laureth Sulfate – also SLS. Surfactant, drying.
Glycereth-2 Cocoate – mild surfactant and emulsifier: protective, thickening and stabilises the formula.
Cocamidopropyl Betaine – also Coco betaine. Surfactant, drying, emulsifying: stabilising.
Glycerin – also glycerol and 1, 2, 3 propane triol. A fatty alcohol that is protective (emollient) and isn’t drying like denatured alcohol or ethanol. Humectant.
PEG-4 Rapeseedamide
Parfum – can be based on essential oils, but can also be based on denatured alcohol or ethanol, which are drying. Potentially drying.
Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben (and) Butylparaben (and) Ethylparaben (and) Propylparaben (and) Isobutylparaben – disinfectant/preservative
Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride– also derivative of cluster beans. Antistatic, protective.
Sodium Chloride – also salt or hailite. Regular table salt and sea salt. Preservative, drying, texturizing.
Himanthalia Elongata – an algae. Volume, shine, boosts hair growth.
Enteromorpha Compressa – an algae. Emulsifier: thickening, antioxidant: good for hair growth and general hair health
Citric Acid – preservative, drying, chelating, disinfecting, gets rid of dandruff, and stimulates hair growth.
Alpha Isomethyl Ionone – fragrance
Benzyl Salicylate – fragrance, reflects UV-light.
Butylphenyl Methylpropional – also also called p-tert-butyl-alpha-methylhydrocinnamic aldehyde, lilial, or lily aldehyde. Fragrance.
Limonene – also dipentene. Fragrance, stimulates hair growth, fights dandruff.
Hexyl Cinnamal – also hexyl cinnamaldehyde. Fragrance.
Linalool – fragrance, kills fleas.
3.5 Summary: Investigation of salon brand products
All in all the conditioners contain mostly moisturising and protectiveingredients, as well as some disinfecting and cleansing properties. Joico and Redken have some protein (Joico more so than Redken). There are a few humectants quite high in the list. Some ingredients are potentially drying and are added for their other applications (such as increasing absorptionof moisturising ingredients). Some drying ingredients are also good for hair growth, lice, dandruff, but generally they are not at a high enough percentage to make a huge difference. There are minor UV-light reflectors, chelators, and antistatic agents. The shampoo contains foremost cleansing but drying surfactants, and as a close second protective ingredients and humectants. There are some drying ingredients, antistatics, hair growthpromoters, and anti-dandruff ingredients but not at high percentages. There is one volume booster.
4. Salon quality hair care with drugstore priced products
Now that I know what to look for, I can better put together a few products for my hair care routine. I condition-wash-condition, and with that in mind, I looked for some simple conditioners with good characteristics. My shampoo, I just want to clean my scalp and some of the silicone build up, so I’m not too fussed. I primarily focus on getting conditioning ingredients in the conditioners, since merely cleansing, non-conditioning shampoos are cheaper. (Side note: I do currentlyuse a dandruff shampoo with piroctone olamine as an experiment, to see if it improves hair growth on healthy scalps since it seems to do so for dandruff prone scalps: scientific study).
About once a week before my CWC I oil my hair with coconut oil. Sometimes I first sprits my hair with water and use a bit of aloe vera gel, which increases absorption of coconut oil and is a humectant. Coconut oil is moisturising, and also protects the protein bonds in hair preventing them from breaking due to wear and tear, including washing. I chill at home for 30 minutes or more, do some chores, watch TV, whatever. Then I get in the shower, wet my hair, and slather some cheap conditioner on the lengths. This one is primarily protective. I shampoo my scalp and let the suds run down the lengths. The shampoo is primarily cleansing. I slather on some more conditioner. Then I shampoo again, wash, and condition the lengths with OGX Macadamia oil conditioner. I chose this conditioner because, among other things, it has coconut oil (moisturisier, protects against breakage), aloe vera (a humectant that also improves penetration of moisturising ingredients), silicones (protective) and protein. I think it is a good balance of all that I need.
I do this once a week. It takes me maybe 5 extra minutes compared to a regular shampoo and condition. 2 minutes to oil my hair, and 2-3 minutes to condition and wash some extra to get the oil out.
I work out some and wash my hair more than once a week, though. I’ve tried getting by with dry shampoo, and it works some days (miracle product, that one!!), but often I condition wash to get the sweat and some of the sebum off my scalp. I use a fairly cleansing conditioner on my scalp (that has piroctone olamine) and a coconut one on my lengths. Then I wash and condition with the OGX one. This doesn’t take me longer than a regular shampoo and condition, to be honest.
Another step I take, because of budgeting reasons, is that when I pre-oil my hair I only use a super cheap conditioner for my no 1 conditioner. When I CO-wash I use a slightly more expensive but still fairly cheap coconut conditioner for my no 1 conditioner. Sometimes I cut it with 50% of the super cheap conditioner to make it last longer. I want the coconut conditioner when I don’t pre-oil to get some of the benefits of coconut oil without having to do the whole pre-oiling thing. That’s too much effort several times a week.
That’s a lot of text and seems like a lot of effort, but I honestly only spend 5 extra minutes a week on washing my hair. And I love showering and taking baths, so it’s like spa-therapy for me!
4.1 Summary: Salon quality hair care with drugstore priced products
I coconut oil my hair to protect from breakage and to moisturise (improve elasticity). I condition with a cheap conditioner for extra protection. I wash to really clean the hair. I condition for protectionagain. I wash an extra time to make sure I get all the oil out (I’m blonde, oil shows really well in my hair). I condition with OGX Macadamia oil conditioner for moisture, protection, protein, and humectants. Sometimes I slather on a mask on the ends for extra protection and moisture.
