Intro
If you’re interested in figuring out the “optimal”
hair care routine for your hair, you can use a hair typing system. It will give
you pointers to what works for a lot of people with your hair type, but there’s
no guarantee it will work for you since we’re all unique. You’ll just have to
try! Hair typing is useful to pinpoint problem areas if you feel that your
hair isn’t doing well but you’re not sure what to do about it.
I mainly use the FIA Hair typing system. It has three
classifiers: curl pattern, hair strand thickness, and volume of hair. There’s
also Andre Walker’s system, which is similar to FIA and from which FIA
developed, and the LOIS system. I’m using the FIA system since I prefer its
classifiers, and I’m also adding in a two more classifiers – porosity and
elasticity – since these are also important!
Here’s a breakdown of all the steps to this FIA/HH
system:
Intro
First classifier: Curl pattern
Second classifier: Hair strand thickness
Third classifier: Density
Fourth classifier:
Porosity
Fifth classifier: Elasticity
Conclusion
First classifier: Curl pattern
Type 1: Straight hair
1 A: stick straight
1 B: straight with some “body” or a slight wave – it
doesn’t look wavy but “voluminous”
1 C: straight with “body” and a few single S-waves
Type 2: Wavy hair
2 A: loose, stretched out S-waves
2 B: short, defined S-waves (looks like braid waves)
2 C: defined S-waves and a few singling spiral curls
Type 3: Curly hair
3 A: loose spiral curls
3 B: tighter ringlets
3 C: tight corkscrews
Type 4: Kinky hair
4 A: defined, tightly coiled S-curls
4 B: less defined, tightly coiled Z-curls
4 C: undefined (unless with
products), tightly coiled Z-curls
For pictures of each curl pattern, see Lesson 8.5!
Second classifier: Hair
strand thickness
F – Fine
Your
hair has thin strands of hair that can’t (or almost can’t) be felt between your
fingers, if you pick one strand and roll it between your index and thumb. If it
can be felt, it has a super-thin silky feel. Many Scandinavians has this type
of hair.
M – Medium
If
you roll this strand of hair between your index and thumb, it can be felt well
but it is soft and smooth. This type is common among Caucasians.
C - Coarse
When
you pick up one of these hair strands between your thumb and index, it feels
stiff and rough. This type is common among Asians and Native Americans.
Note
African
hair typically varies a lot more in hair strand thickness than other ethnicities!
You can also have coarse hair even if you are Scandinavian, or fine hair if you
are Asian, and so on.
Third classifier: Density
Pull all of your hair into a ponytail, and measure the circumference. This can
be a bit tricky. I’m not very good at it myself, and usually vary between 9 and
11 cm in circumference if I redo this test over and over. You can use a measure
tape or a string, and then measure the string with a ruler.
This
method is not ideal if you have short hair, a fringe, or a texture that doesn’t
let you pull all hair into your ponytail. If you use this method, you may then
have to “guesstimate” according to how much of your hair you couldn’t get into
the ponytail. There are other methods out there, such as counting all the hairs
in one square cm of your scalp – but this would take a ridiculous amount of
time, in my opinion.
i : Thin hair is less than 5 cm (2
in)
ii : Medium hair is between 5-10 cm
(2-4 in)
iii : Thick hair is more than 10 cm
(4 in)
Fourth classifier: Porosity
Hair porosity refers to how well your hair can take
in and retain moisture. This is related to how flat your cuticle lays. The
cuticle is the outer layer of the hair, and looks sort of like fish scales. If
the scales lay flat, you have low porosity, since moisture both has a difficult
time getting in and a difficult time getting out. If your cuticle is uneven,
the scales are open and moisture can both get in and leave easily. Porosity is
mostly genetic. Curly types tend to be more porous due to the twists and turn
in their hair that makes the scales open up more. But porosity can also come
about due to different types of damage such as mechanical (brushing, etc.) or
chemical (hair dyes, etc.).
To test your porosity you use “the float test”. Take
a strand of hair and put it in a cup of water. Leave for 5 minutes or so. If
your hair is still floating, you have low porosity, and if it has sunk, you
have high porosity. If it is sort of in between, you may have medium porosity.
Another way of testing your porosity is picking up a
hair strand between your fingers and running your fingers down the hair strand.
If it feels smooth, it’s low porosity. If it’s “a bit” bumpy, it has medium
porosity. And if it feels “really” bumpy, it’s high porosity. I don’t like this
type of test because it can easily be confused for hair strand thickness
(fine/medium/coarse), which is a different thing.
LP – Low porosity
Low porosity hair has scales that lay flat
and overlap. It is usually resistant to penetration of moisture, hair products,
and chemicals used in hair processing. Due to being resistant to penetration,
low porosity hair can be quite dry simply because when it does dry out,
humidity in the air can’t easily get into the hair.
Avoid: protein
Low porosity hair can have issues with products
containing protein, since it has a tendency to build up on the hair. The hair
will feel stiff and like straw, and starts to snap off easily. Protein is used
to patch up damaged cuticles, so you don’t need it anyway!
For more information
on protein, see the “Fifth classifier: Elasticity” further down!
Avoid: heavy moisturisers
Heavy moisturisers have a tendency to just
sit on top of the hair for low porosity types, rather than absorb into the hair
due to the tightly wound cuticle. If you use moderate heat when doing hair
treatments with heavy products, the cuticle will open up somewhat and allow
more of e.g. the deep conditioner or oil to penetrate into the hair.
Use: light moisturisers
What is considered a “light” moisturiser vs.
a “heavy” one can be very individual, but moisturisers with a high
spreadability – such as jojoba oil – is a good bet when you know that not a lot
is going to absorb into the hair. Otherwise you risk getting greasy hair.
Use: humectants
Humectants can under some circumstances and
for some hair types cause a lot of frizz, but low porosity types generally are more resistant to this
problem. Humectants attract moisture to
you hair and hold it there, which is good when moisture generally has a
difficult time getting in in the first place. Aloe vera, glycerin, and honey
are a few good humectants.
MP – Medium porosity
Medium porosity hair is often the most
manageable moisture-wise. Moisture can both get in and out at a suitable level.
It’s easily styled and processed, but if you have too much fun heat styling and
processing it can become damaged and highly porous instead!
Use: some protein
Protein can benefit medium porosity hair, but…
Avoid: too much protein
Don’t use it too much, and you can get the
same problems low porosity hair faces with protein – straw-like, stiff, and
brittle hair.
For more information
on protein, see the “Fifth classifier: Elasticity” further down!
Use: heavy moisturisers
Heavy moisturisers can definitely benefit
medium porosity hair, but don’t expect them to be absorbed into the hair right
away. You may have to wait a little bit or apply moderate heat.
Use/avoid: humectants
Since medium porosity hair typically absorbs
and expels moisture at an appropriate level on its own, humectants are
typically not important. Especially avoid in high humidity climates since it
can draw in too much moisture and cause frizz. Also avoid humectants in too dry
conditions, since instead of attracting moisture to your hair from the
atmosphere, if there’s not enough moisture in the atmosphere, the humectants
can start drawing moisture out of your hair instead. I would advise that you
use humectants occasionally when your hair feels dry due to e.g. a drying
treatment, excessive use of hairspray, etc.
HP – High porosity
High porosity hair can be a genetic thing,
but it can also come about due to chemical processing or other damage done to
the hair. Especially bleaching is a major cause of high porosity hair. Genetic
high porosity is more common among curlier types than straighter types due to
all the twists and turns in the hair strands, which make the scales of the
cuticle raised. But, certainly not all curly hair is highly porous. In high
porosity hair, too much moisture is able to both get in and get out of the
hair. It will be prone to frizz. When the scales are raised hair strands tend
to “catch” on each other’s scales, making tangling an issue.
Also hygral fatigue is an issue here. The
hair strand “swells” as moisture goes in, and “shrinks” as moisture goes out.
If it swells and shrinks too often, this “stretchy” property of hair gets worn
out, and the hair gets brittle and may snap off. This can happen to any hair type
that gets wet and dry too often, but it’s only really a big issue for high
porosity hairs since they swell/shrink more than others, and more often. Other
types may only swell/shrink in the shower, while high porosity hair will also
do so in humid weather.
Use: protein
Highly porous hair can often benefit from a
little protein every day. It temporarily “patches up” the cuticle making the
hair feel smoother, and prevents moisture from leaving the hair.
For more information
on protein, see the “Fifth classifier: Elasticity” further down!
Use: heavy moisturisers and sealers
To prevent highly porous hair from losing
moisture, you can use heavy moisturisers and sealants to lock it in. Heavy moisturisers will penetrate into highly
porous hair more easily than for other hair types, and will also “take up
space” so that the humidity in the air isn’t absorb and lost to such a high
extent. Sealers will sit on top of the hair strand, causing a film on top of
the cuticle that will prevent moisture from escaping through the holes in the
cuticle.
Use/Avoid: humectants
High porosity hair may very well benefit
from humectants in “medium” climates, but in very dry and very humid conditions
they can either draw moisture out of your hair, or draw too much moisture into
your hair. In “medium” climates, however, humectants can help the moisture stay
in the hair.
Use/Avoid: anti-humectants
Anti-humectants can repel moisture from your
hair, and is useful in especially very humid climates. This will give your
swell/shrink property of your hair a break (and less frizz!). In very dry
climates, it’s better to rely on moisturisers and sealers, and possibly
protein, to lock in the moisture.
Fifth classifier: Elasticity
Hair elasticity has to do with how elastic the hair is. If you pick a wet
hair from your head and pull at either end it can do one of three things.
1.
It stretches, and stretches, and stretches… and
then snaps. Alternatively, it stretches, and when you let go, it doesn’t return
to its original state. It stays stretched. It can also feel gummy. If this is
the case, you have high elasticity.
2.
It stretches, and when you stop pulling it
returns to normal. You have normal
elasticity.
3.
It doesn’t stretch much at all before it snaps
off. It will probably also feel a bit stiff. You have low elasticity.
HE – High
elasticity
If you have determined that you have high elasticity, you’re probably
overloaded on moisture. Adding
protein to you hair will help fix this.
Depending on your porosity you may want to use regular products with protein,
such as shampoo and conditioner, or a less regular treatment every now and
then, such a deep conditioner. High porosity hair does well with adding protein
often, since it has many holes in the cuticle, while medium or low porosity
hair should consider a protein treatment every now and then, but not too often.
If you overdo it with the protein you can suddenly find that you have low
elasticity instead!
NE – Normal
elasticity
If you have normal elasticity, you should keep doing what you’re
doing! No need to add moisturizing deep conditioners or protein treatments.
Your hair may do well with products like that – or you may upset the balance
and get high or low elasticity instead.
LE – Low
elasticity
Low elasticity hair is also called “dry” hair, because – you guessed
it – it needs
moisture. You can get low elasticity for various reasons, such as
a dry climate, too much protein in your hair care products, high porosity, etc.
It’s all fixed with a moisturizing treatment.
Moisture-protein
balance
As you probably can glean from the sections on elasticity,
over-moisturised hair can be remedied with protein, and over-proteined hair can
be remedied with moisture. This means that hair needs a moisture-protein balance. Hair with normal porosity typically has a
natural balance between moisture and protein, but low and high porosity types
can struggle. Low porosity types already have a lot of protein naturally in the
cuticle (the hair, including the cuticle, is actually made out of protein!), so
much that moisture can struggle to get in. High porosity hair, on the other
hand, has gaps in the protein cuticle letting moisture in and out too quickly. As
such it makes sense to ad loads of moisture to dry, low porosity hair, and both
moisture and protein to dry high porosity hair, for example.
Conclusion
If you’ve stuck with me all the way to the end, you may be wondering
what to do now. What I did, was after I’d researched all of this, I took out a
pen and paper and noted down keywords for each type I had. Like so:
I’m 2 A, F, ii/iii, LP, NE
2 A – I’m
wavy, so I can get poofy if I brush too vigorously
F – I’m fine
haired, so I’ll be mindful it snaps more easily than thicker hair strands
ii/iii – I
actually have a fair lot of hairs, which means losing a lot of hairs each day
is normal
LP – getting
moisturisers into my hair is difficult, I should try hot oil treatments, and
use high spreadability sealants
NE – my
elasticity is fine, so I should continue using moisturising conditioners and
weekly deep treatments
I didn’t feel that I had any issues or had to change anything about my
routine. But, as I said in the beginning, this tool is useful to pinpoint problem
areas if you feel that your hair isn’t doing well but you’re not sure what to
do about it.
Sources
The Wavy Hair Library
Black Hair Spot
Naturally Curly
Popsugar
Bustle