Showing posts with label hair-school. Show all posts
Showing posts with label hair-school. Show all posts

Tuesday, 27 March 2018

Hair School 8 (cont.): Visuals of hair types

I've collected some pictures depicting the different hair types. These are not mine, and I've posted the source below each picture. Please let me know if I should take any of them down.









Monday, 26 March 2018

Hair School 8: Finding the Optimal Hair Care Routine



Intro

If you’re interested in figuring out the “optimal” hair care routine for your hair, you can use a hair typing system. It will give you pointers to what works for a lot of people with your hair type, but there’s no guarantee it will work for you since we’re all unique. You’ll just have to try! Hair typing is useful to pinpoint problem areas if you feel that your hair isn’t doing well but you’re not sure what to do about it.

I mainly use the FIA Hair typing system. It has three classifiers: curl pattern, hair strand thickness, and volume of hair. There’s also Andre Walker’s system, which is similar to FIA and from which FIA developed, and the LOIS system. I’m using the FIA system since I prefer its classifiers, and I’m also adding in a two more classifiers – porosity and elasticity – since these are also important!

Here’s a breakdown of all the steps to this FIA/HH system:

Intro
First classifier: Curl pattern
Second classifier: Hair strand thickness
Third classifier: Density
Fourth classifier:  Porosity
Fifth classifier: Elasticity
Conclusion

First classifier: Curl pattern

Type 1: Straight hair

1 A: stick straight
1 B: straight with some “body” or a slight wave – it doesn’t look wavy but “voluminous”
1 C: straight with “body” and a few single S-waves

Type 2: Wavy hair

2 A: loose, stretched out S-waves
2 B: short, defined S-waves (looks like braid waves)
2 C: defined S-waves and a few singling spiral curls

Type 3: Curly hair

3 A: loose spiral curls
3 B: tighter ringlets
3 C: tight corkscrews 

Type 4: Kinky hair

4 A: defined, tightly coiled S-curls
4 B: less defined, tightly coiled Z-curls
4 C: undefined (unless with products), tightly coiled Z-curls

For pictures of each curl pattern, see Lesson 8.5!

Second classifier: Hair strand thickness

F – Fine

Your hair has thin strands of hair that can’t (or almost can’t) be felt between your fingers, if you pick one strand and roll it between your index and thumb. If it can be felt, it has a super-thin silky feel. Many Scandinavians has this type of hair.

M – Medium

If you roll this strand of hair between your index and thumb, it can be felt well but it is soft and smooth. This type is common among Caucasians.

C - Coarse

When you pick up one of these hair strands between your thumb and index, it feels stiff and rough. This type is common among Asians and Native Americans.

Note

African hair typically varies a lot more in hair strand thickness than other ethnicities! You can also have coarse hair even if you are Scandinavian, or fine hair if you are Asian, and so on.

Third classifier: Density

Pull all of your hair into a ponytail, and measure the circumference. This can be a bit tricky. I’m not very good at it myself, and usually vary between 9 and 11 cm in circumference if I redo this test over and over. You can use a measure tape or a string, and then measure the string with a ruler.

This method is not ideal if you have short hair, a fringe, or a texture that doesn’t let you pull all hair into your ponytail. If you use this method, you may then have to “guesstimate” according to how much of your hair you couldn’t get into the ponytail. There are other methods out there, such as counting all the hairs in one square cm of your scalp – but this would take a ridiculous amount of time, in my opinion.

i : Thin hair is less than 5 cm (2 in)
ii : Medium hair is between 5-10 cm (2-4 in)
iii : Thick hair is more than 10 cm (4 in)

Fourth classifier:  Porosity

Hair porosity refers to how well your hair can take in and retain moisture. This is related to how flat your cuticle lays. The cuticle is the outer layer of the hair, and looks sort of like fish scales. If the scales lay flat, you have low porosity, since moisture both has a difficult time getting in and a difficult time getting out. If your cuticle is uneven, the scales are open and moisture can both get in and leave easily. Porosity is mostly genetic. Curly types tend to be more porous due to the twists and turn in their hair that makes the scales open up more. But porosity can also come about due to different types of damage such as mechanical (brushing, etc.) or chemical (hair dyes, etc.).

To test your porosity you use “the float test”. Take a strand of hair and put it in a cup of water. Leave for 5 minutes or so. If your hair is still floating, you have low porosity, and if it has sunk, you have high porosity. If it is sort of in between, you may have medium porosity.

Another way of testing your porosity is picking up a hair strand between your fingers and running your fingers down the hair strand. If it feels smooth, it’s low porosity. If it’s “a bit” bumpy, it has medium porosity. And if it feels “really” bumpy, it’s high porosity. I don’t like this type of test because it can easily be confused for hair strand thickness (fine/medium/coarse), which is a different thing.

LP – Low porosity

Low porosity hair has scales that lay flat and overlap. It is usually resistant to penetration of moisture, hair products, and chemicals used in hair processing. Due to being resistant to penetration, low porosity hair can be quite dry simply because when it does dry out, humidity in the air can’t easily get into the hair.

Avoid: protein

Low porosity hair can have issues with products containing protein, since it has a tendency to build up on the hair. The hair will feel stiff and like straw, and starts to snap off easily. Protein is used to patch up damaged cuticles, so you don’t need it anyway!

For more information on protein, see the “Fifth classifier: Elasticity” further down!

Avoid: heavy moisturisers

Heavy moisturisers have a tendency to just sit on top of the hair for low porosity types, rather than absorb into the hair due to the tightly wound cuticle. If you use moderate heat when doing hair treatments with heavy products, the cuticle will open up somewhat and allow more of e.g. the deep conditioner or oil to penetrate into the hair.

Use: light moisturisers

What is considered a “light” moisturiser vs. a “heavy” one can be very individual, but moisturisers with a high spreadability – such as jojoba oil – is a good bet when you know that not a lot is going to absorb into the hair. Otherwise you risk getting greasy hair.

Use: humectants

Humectants can under some circumstances and for some hair types cause a lot of frizz, but low porosity types generally are more resistant to this problem.  Humectants attract moisture to you hair and hold it there, which is good when moisture generally has a difficult time getting in in the first place. Aloe vera, glycerin, and honey are a few good humectants.

MP – Medium porosity

Medium porosity hair is often the most manageable moisture-wise. Moisture can both get in and out at a suitable level. It’s easily styled and processed, but if you have too much fun heat styling and processing it can become damaged and highly porous instead!

Use: some protein

Protein can benefit medium porosity hair, but…

Avoid: too much protein

Don’t use it too much, and you can get the same problems low porosity hair faces with protein – straw-like, stiff, and brittle hair.

For more information on protein, see the “Fifth classifier: Elasticity” further down!

Use: heavy moisturisers

Heavy moisturisers can definitely benefit medium porosity hair, but don’t expect them to be absorbed into the hair right away. You may have to wait a little bit or apply moderate heat.

Use/avoid: humectants

Since medium porosity hair typically absorbs and expels moisture at an appropriate level on its own, humectants are typically not important. Especially avoid in high humidity climates since it can draw in too much moisture and cause frizz. Also avoid humectants in too dry conditions, since instead of attracting moisture to your hair from the atmosphere, if there’s not enough moisture in the atmosphere, the humectants can start drawing moisture out of your hair instead. I would advise that you use humectants occasionally when your hair feels dry due to e.g. a drying treatment, excessive use of hairspray, etc.

HP – High porosity

High porosity hair can be a genetic thing, but it can also come about due to chemical processing or other damage done to the hair. Especially bleaching is a major cause of high porosity hair. Genetic high porosity is more common among curlier types than straighter types due to all the twists and turns in the hair strands, which make the scales of the cuticle raised. But, certainly not all curly hair is highly porous. In high porosity hair, too much moisture is able to both get in and get out of the hair. It will be prone to frizz. When the scales are raised hair strands tend to “catch” on each other’s scales, making tangling an issue.

Also hygral fatigue is an issue here. The hair strand “swells” as moisture goes in, and “shrinks” as moisture goes out. If it swells and shrinks too often, this “stretchy” property of hair gets worn out, and the hair gets brittle and may snap off. This can happen to any hair type that gets wet and dry too often, but it’s only really a big issue for high porosity hairs since they swell/shrink more than others, and more often. Other types may only swell/shrink in the shower, while high porosity hair will also do so in humid weather.

Use: protein

Highly porous hair can often benefit from a little protein every day. It temporarily “patches up” the cuticle making the hair feel smoother, and prevents moisture from leaving the hair.
For more information on protein, see the “Fifth classifier: Elasticity” further down!

Use: heavy moisturisers and sealers

To prevent highly porous hair from losing moisture, you can use heavy moisturisers and sealants to lock it in.  Heavy moisturisers will penetrate into highly porous hair more easily than for other hair types, and will also “take up space” so that the humidity in the air isn’t absorb and lost to such a high extent. Sealers will sit on top of the hair strand, causing a film on top of the cuticle that will prevent moisture from escaping through the holes in the cuticle.

Use/Avoid: humectants

High porosity hair may very well benefit from humectants in “medium” climates, but in very dry and very humid conditions they can either draw moisture out of your hair, or draw too much moisture into your hair. In “medium” climates, however, humectants can help the moisture stay in the hair.

Use/Avoid: anti-humectants

Anti-humectants can repel moisture from your hair, and is useful in especially very humid climates. This will give your swell/shrink property of your hair a break (and less frizz!). In very dry climates, it’s better to rely on moisturisers and sealers, and possibly protein, to lock in the moisture.

Fifth classifier: Elasticity

Hair elasticity has to do with how elastic the hair is. If you pick a wet hair from your head and pull at either end it can do one of three things.

1.     It stretches, and stretches, and stretches… and then snaps. Alternatively, it stretches, and when you let go, it doesn’t return to its original state. It stays stretched. It can also feel gummy. If this is the case, you have high elasticity.
2.     It stretches, and when you stop pulling it returns to normal. You have normal elasticity.
3.     It doesn’t stretch much at all before it snaps off. It will probably also feel a bit stiff. You have low elasticity.

HE – High elasticity

If you have determined that you have high elasticity, you’re probably overloaded on moisture. Adding protein to you hair will help fix this. Depending on your porosity you may want to use regular products with protein, such as shampoo and conditioner, or a less regular treatment every now and then, such a deep conditioner. High porosity hair does well with adding protein often, since it has many holes in the cuticle, while medium or low porosity hair should consider a protein treatment every now and then, but not too often. If you overdo it with the protein you can suddenly find that you have low elasticity instead!

NE – Normal elasticity

If you have normal elasticity, you should keep doing what you’re doing! No need to add moisturizing deep conditioners or protein treatments. Your hair may do well with products like that – or you may upset the balance and get high or low elasticity instead.

LE – Low elasticity

Low elasticity hair is also called “dry” hair, because – you guessed it – it needs moisture. You can get low elasticity for various reasons, such as a dry climate, too much protein in your hair care products, high porosity, etc. It’s all fixed with a moisturizing treatment.

Moisture-protein balance

As you probably can glean from the sections on elasticity, over-moisturised hair can be remedied with protein, and over-proteined hair can be remedied with moisture. This means that hair needs a moisture-protein balance. Hair with normal porosity typically has a natural balance between moisture and protein, but low and high porosity types can struggle. Low porosity types already have a lot of protein naturally in the cuticle (the hair, including the cuticle, is actually made out of protein!), so much that moisture can struggle to get in. High porosity hair, on the other hand, has gaps in the protein cuticle letting moisture in and out too quickly. As such it makes sense to ad loads of moisture to dry, low porosity hair, and both moisture and protein to dry high porosity hair, for example.

Conclusion

If you’ve stuck with me all the way to the end, you may be wondering what to do now. What I did, was after I’d researched all of this, I took out a pen and paper and noted down keywords for each type I had. Like so:

I’m 2 A, F, ii/iii, LP, NE

2 A – I’m wavy, so I can get poofy if I brush too vigorously
F – I’m fine haired, so I’ll be mindful it snaps more easily than thicker hair strands
ii/iii – I actually have a fair lot of hairs, which means losing a lot of hairs each day is normal
LP – getting moisturisers into my hair is difficult, I should try hot oil treatments, and use high spreadability sealants
NE – my elasticity is fine, so I should continue using moisturising conditioners and weekly deep treatments

I didn’t feel that I had any issues or had to change anything about my routine. But, as I said in the beginning, this tool is useful to pinpoint problem areas if you feel that your hair isn’t doing well but you’re not sure what to do about it.

Sources

The Wavy Hair Library

Black Hair Spot

Naturally Curly

Popsugar

Bustle

Sunday, 17 September 2017

Hair School 7: Ayurveda



Ayurveda for hair is something I haven’t tried for myself yet, but I’ve been reading some and figured I’d compile the information I have so far.

Basically, Ayurveda is not just for hair – it means “the way of life” and is a type of all-encompassing Indian medicinal science. But, some of it can be used for your hair. For example, in the case of hair loss, Ayurvedic practices can be used to diagnose the cause, and then recommend a treatment. This will probably include changing a poor diet or cutting down on stress. But there are some Ayurvedic herbs out there that can help as well. And it’s not just for hair loss, but also for cleansing hair gently, and encouraging curl patterns, among other things. Below I’ll outline a few common ones!

This post is humongous so the herbs and plants are organised alphabetically, followed by a few suggestions for methods of how to mix several of the plants together and use them. Below is an index of their order. Under the index I have also grouped the plants in accordance to their properties, such as “cleansing”, “hair growth/hair fall remedy”, “oily scalp” etc., so you can check out which property you’re most interested in, and then refer to the index to find the specific plants.

Herbs/plants

1. Aloe Vera
2. Amla (Amalaki/Indian Gooseberry)
3. Aromatic Jatamansi (Muskroot/Indian Spikenard)
4. Ashwagandha (Indian Winter Cherry)
5. Baheda/Bahera
6. Bhringraj (The King Of Herbs/Bringraj/Bringaraj/False Daisy)
7. Brahmi (Bacopa monnieri)
8. Cassia Obovata (”Neutral Henna”)
9. Methi (Fenugreek)
10. Neem
11. Ritha (Reetha/Soap Nuts)
12. Shikakai (Fruit for Hair)

Methods

1. Hot Oil Massage
2. Shampoo/Conditioner Paste

0. Sources

Properties:

Cleansing: (1.) Aloe Vera; (2.) Amla; (5.) Baheda; (11.) Ritha; (12.) Shikakai
Conditioner: (1.) Aloe Vera; (2.) Amla; (5.) Baheda; (6.) Bhringraj; (7.) Brahmi; (8.) Cassia Obovata; (11.) Ritha; (12.) Shikakai
Scalp problem relievers: (1.) Aloe Vera; (2.) Amla; (4.) Ashwagandha; (7.) Brahmi; (9.) Methi; (10.) Neem; (11.) Ritha; (12.) Shikakai
Lice: (10.) Neem; (12.) Shikakai
Oily scalp: (2.) Amla; (10.) Neem
Hair growth/hair fall remedy: (1.) Aloe Vera; (2.) Amla; (3.) Aromatic Jatamansi; (4.) Ashwagandha; (5.) Baheda; (6.) Bhringraj; (7.) Brahmi; (9.) Methi; (10.) Neem; (11.) Ritha; (12.) Shikakai
Greying remedy: (1.) Aloe Vera; (2.) Amla; (4.) Ashwagandha; (5.) Baheda; (6.) Bhringraj; (10.) Neem; (12.) Shikakai
Curl enhancer: (2.) Amla
Hair strengthener: (5.) Baheda; (7.) Brahmi; (8.) Cassia Obovata; (Henna – see Lesson 5)
Hair dye: (2.) Amla; (6.) Bhringraj; (8.) Cassia Obovata; (Henna, indigo, and katam - see Lesson 5)


1. Aloe Vera

The gel of the Aloe Vera plant is a humectant nourishes and moisturises your scalp and hair. It helps prevent/remedy hair fall and stimulates hair growth. It contains vitamins A, C, and E, and some minerals, which are antioxidants that combat free radicals. Free radicals are agents that cause aging of hair, such as loss of colour and thinning.

Aloe Vera gel also has enzymes, fatty acids, hormones, and sugars that reduce inflammation in skin and help wound healing. A few anthraquinines (say that fast three times!) have both pain killing (analgesic), antibacterial, and antiviral properties, while a couple of fatty acids are antiseptic and analgesic. One type of sugar has antiallergic properties, and aloe vera also contains salicylic acid, which is a well known anti-inflammatory and antibacterial, often used in treatment of acne.

Lignin facilitates penetration of other substances, much like alcohol, but is a good non-drying alternative. Finally, aloe vera contains saponins (“soaps”) at about 3%, which are cleansing and antiseptic.

All in all, applied topically it is cleansing, antibacterial and antiviral, nourishing, protective, pain killing, antiallergic, and increases the benefit of other products/ingredients used at the same time. It’s good for people with various scalp problems – from itchiness and dandruff, to hair fall and greying hair. (Source 1, Aloe Vera Article 1, Aloe Vera Article 2)


Recipes containing aloe vera

Scalp paste:

½ cup Aloe Vera gel (120 ml or 1 dl, 1 tbsp, and 1 tsp)
3 tbsp Coconut Oil
2 tbsp Honey

Whisk the ingredients together until the mixture is.
Stroke it onto your scalp and hair, and let it sit for half an hour. This is good for both the skin of your scalp and your hair strands. (Source 1)

Scalp and hair deep treatment:

Add pure aloe vera gel to your scalp, hair, or both, and let sit for 15 minutes or more (even overnight!). You can also mix with castor oil, which has similar properties for hair fall. (Source 3)


2. Amla/Amalaki/Indian Gooseberry

Amla is good to prevent/remedy hair fall, as well as irritated scalps and dandruff. It fights bacteria, inflammations, and microbes, and tighten up pores so that new bacteria and dirt have a harder time getting lodged there and causing new problems. It increases blood flow to the scalp, which stimulates hair growth. It conditions hair, is rich in antioixants that prevent hair fall and greying, and is cleansing and balances oily scalps. It sometimes can have curl enhancing properties, and can also be used to in conjunction with shikakai (no. 12) to dye a light brown colour. However, since there are no bleaching properties in amla, this colour will only show on light hair. (Source 1)

Recipes containing amla

Conditioner and scalp treatment:

5-6 tbsp Amla powder
5-6 tbsp water

Amounts depend on the amount of hair. Mix 50% water and 50% amla together into a smooth mixture. Apply this to both scalp and hair. Let sit for 30 minutes. (Source 1)

Hair dye:

Mix shikakai and amla with water and apply to hair (Source 2)

Hair oil:

There are several ready made amla hair oils sold out there, but you can also make your own by infusing amla powder into your oil of choice. Leave for a week/few weeks, and then strain the mixture to get rid of the powder. (Source 3)

Anti-dandruff:

Combine amla with coconut oil to combat dandruff (Source 3)


Hair rinse:

Add 1 tbsp amla to 1 cup (230 ml: 2dl + 2 tbsp) water. Let it sit overnight, then boil it in the morning. Let is cool, strain, and use it as a hair rinse. (Source 3)


3. Aromatic Jatamansi/Muskroot/Indian Spikenard

Jatamansi boosts hair growth. It can be both applied topically, or taken orally in a capsule.

Recipes containing jatamansi

Hair oil:

5-6 drops Jatamansi essential oil
2-3 tbsp carrier oil of your choice – I would suggest coconut or a light vegetable oil

Mix the oils and massage your scalp with the mixture for 15 minutes. Then apply tp the lengths of your hair as well and let sit for 30 minutes. (Source 1)


4. Ashwagandha/Indian Winter Cherry

Ashwagandha is the top remedy for hair fall in Aryurveda.  It controls the cortisol levels in the scalp, a stress hormone that can be the cause of hair loss. It also has antioxidants and stimulates melanin production, which helps hair growth and prevents greying. Aschwgandha is helpful against dandruff and psoriasis. It can be applied topically or taken orally in 6mg capsules daily. (Source 1Source 2Source 3)

Recipes containing ashwagandha

Hair paste:

3 tbsp ashwagandha powder
3 tbsp amla powder
6 tbsp water

Mix ingredients into a smooth mixture. More water can be added to make it less thick. Apply to scalp and hair and let sit for 30 min. (Source 1)


5. Baheda/bahera

Baheda is foremost a hair strengthener, but it also boosts hair growth, prevents greying through antioxidant properties, and cleanses and conditions. (Source 2)

Recipes containing Baheda

Scalp oil:

Massage your scalp with baheda oil (Baheda Article 1)

Scalp curd:

3 tsp baheda powder
1/2 cup curd

Massage into your scalp and let sit for 30 min (Baheda Article 2)


6. Bhringraj/The King Of Herbs/Bringraj/Bringaraj/False Daisy

Bhringraj boosts hair growth by increasing blood circulation in the scalp and remedies hair fall and greying. It is conditioning and may darken light hair. (Source 2)


Recipes containing bhringraj

Hair paste:

A handful bhringraj leaves or 5-6 tbsp bhringraj powder
Water
Optional: amla

Add water to the bhringraj little by little while mixing, until you have a smooth mixture. Apply to scalp and hair and let sit for 20 min. (Source 1)


Hair oil for scalp:

Ready made bhringraj oil is also sold here and there, or you canmake it by adding powdered leaves to an oil and let soak for a few days until the colour changes. (Source 1Source 3)

Hair yoghurt:

Mix yoghurt and bhringraj leaves and apply to scalp. (Source 3)


7. Brahmi/Bacopa monnieri

Brahmi is a hair strengthener and boosts hair growth by stimulating the follicles. It reduces dandruff and scalp itchiness. It conditions the hair, makes it thicker, and prevents split ends. (Source 1, Source 2)


Recipes containing brahmi

Hair yoghurt:

2 tbsp brahmi powder
2 tbsp amla powder
2 tbsp ashwagandha powder
½ cup yogurt

Mix ingredients into a smooth paste. Apply to scalp and hair, and let sit for an hour. (Source 1)

Hair rinse:

Boil brahmi and neem leaves for 10 minutes. Let it sit overnight, strain and use as a rinse the next morning. (Source 1

Hair rinse 2:

Boil water. Mix brahmi, neem, ashwagandha and bhringraj powder into the water and leave overnight with a lid on. Strain and use as a hair rinse. (Source 3)

Hair paste:

Mix brahmi, amla, and bhringraj with warm water, into a smooth paste. Let sit for an hour before applying to hair. Wait until it dries, then wash. (Source 3)


8. Cassia Obovata/”Neutral henna”

This one got a little action before in Lesson 5. Unlike henna, which is pimarily a colourant and secondly a conditioner, Cassia's colour doesn't last long and can be used multiple times for conditioning. So, here Cassia is again. Cassia is most often used mixed with henna, indigo, and katam (see Lesson 5) to dilute the hair dye. It has a bright yellow colour and can leave light hair with a yellow tinge. This washes out in a month or so. It conditions hair, makes it stronger, thicker, and shinier. (Source 2)

Recipes containing cassia

Hair dye:

Cassia with henna – see Lesson 5

Deep conditioner:

Mix with amla, and chamomile tea into a smooth paste to add a warm tinge to light hair (Source 2)


9. Methi/Fenugreek

Methi can be used to boost hair growth, remedy hair fall, dandruff, and itchiness. (Source 1, Source 2)

Recipes containing methi

Scalp paste

2 tbsp methi
3 tbsp water

Fry the methi in a pan and grind into a powder.
Mix the powder and water into a smooth paste and apply to your scalp. Let sit for 20 minutes.  (Source 1)


10. Neem

Neem improved blood circulation in the scalp and boosts hair growth. It is helpful against greying, and is also a good remedy for dandruff, lice (!), eczema, psosiasis, and an oily scalp. (Source 1Source 2Source 3)

Recipes containing neem

Hair rinse:

A handful of neem leaves
2 cups water

Boil the leaves in the water for 15 minutes, let is cool, then strain the mixture.Boil the neem leaves in water for 15 minutes and then set it aside to cool, then rinse your hair in it. (Source 1Source 3)
  
Hair paste:

Mix neem powder with enough water to make a smooth paste. Apply to scalp and hair and let sit for 30 min. (Source 1Source 3)

Hair oil:

Mix neem oil with a carrier oil and massage onto scalp (Source 3)


11. Ritha/Reetha/Soap Nuts

Ritha has historically been used as a type of shampoo and conditioner. It is antibacterial and regular use boosts hair growth, texture, and volume. It’s very mild and won’t strip the natural oils from your hair, which may or may not be the look you’re going for. (Source 1Source 2, Source 3)


Recipes containing ritha

Cleanser:

A handful of soap nuts
water

Soak the soap nuts overnight in warm water. Boil the soap nuts and water for 15 minutes, let it cool, and strain the mixture. Wet your hair and pour half of the liquid over your hair. Massage thoroughly and rinse. Pour the other half of the liquid, massage, and rinse. The second time, the liquid will lather slightly. (Source 1Source 3)

Moisturising cleanser:
Soak nuts, amla, and shikakai overnight, boil, and strain. Pour over your head and massage twice. (Source 3)
Hair mask:
3 tsp ritha powder
water
2 tsp yoghurt

Mix, and apply to hair 
(Source 3)

12. Shikakai/Fruit for Hair

Shikakai lathers with water and can be used as a shampoo. It has antioxidants and is antibacterial, so it prevents greying, hair fall, and scalp problems such as dandruff and itchiness, and even lice. It’s doesn’t clear all natural oils from the hair so it also acts as a conditioner and gives volume. It may darken light hair. (Source 1Source 2, Source 3)

Recipes with shikakai

Cleanser:

6 tbsp shikakai powder
2 cups water.

Mix the ingredients and pour half over your head. Massage thoroughly. Repeat with the second half. (Source 1)

Hair pack:
Shikakai and yoghurt (Source 3)
Lice remedy:
Shikakai and olive oil (Source 3)

Method 1. Hot Oil Massage

A great way to treat your hair is a hot oil massage. Choose your ingredients of choice, either from the ones mentioned here or other herbs you take an interest in. Under a few sections here are recipes for how to make an oil by infusing a herb – check the section for neem, for example (number 10). You don’t have to choose just one herb, you can infuse as many as you want in your carrier oil.

A hot oil massage using either coconut, maha bhringraj, amla, arnica, sesame seed, almond or Brahmi oil helps improve circulation, rejuvenates your hair follicles, which leads to better blood circulation to the roots. You can expect increased volume and length within a span of 6 months.

When your herbal oil is all infused, strained, and ready for use, to do a hot oil massage you heat your herbal oil until it is slightly warm. No more than a few seconds in the microwave, or give the container a hot water bath. Then you massage your scalp with your oil thoroughly – 15 minutes or so. Then you apply the oil to your entire hair and tuck it into a shower cap. The heat from your body will be contained in the shower cap, and will help the oil to penetrate the hair shaft. Leave it as long as you like, but 30 minutes is a good tip. (Source 1)





Method 2. Mixing your herbal powders with floral waters to make shampoo paste

Generally, the cleansing powders are either boiled and strained, and then poured over the head, or mixed into a paste-consistency and applied to the scalp. Either way requires water. A fun tip I picked up online was to mix your cleansing powders with floral water for added fragrance and benefit from the essential oils. I’ve written a little bit about rose water and orange blossom water already, so check that post out if you’re interested.

You can also mix with various teas, such as chamomile tea for blondes, or perhaps peppermint tea for people with scalp problems. (Source 2)



Sources:

Source 1: 
Source 2: 
Source 3:

Additional sources:

- Aloe Vera:
Article 1: 
Article 2: 

- Baheda:
Article 1: 
Article 2: